Articles for April, 2010

For the past two consecutive Vision Expo shows, the Vision Choice award for Best New Product has been bestowed upon optical newcomer Tom Kramer, founder and designer of Teka Eyewear. This honor celebrates highly innovative eyewear in terms of both design and technology. Kramer, whose company has only been around since 2007, has come a long way in just three years.

Teka Eyewear (pronounced “tee-KAY” to represent the designer’s initials) is a collection built on passion. Designed entirely by Kramer, many Teka frames employ unique and exotic materials, which he loves to work with. “The materials for my frames are sourced from all over the world,” he says. “I have a frame that is made with bubinga wood, a rare wood from Africa. And there’s another made from zebrawood, a wood I have never seen used in eyewear before. We find small boutique factories that specialize in dealing with these materials. These woods are not stained; there is no wood veneer. If you were to break it open it would be the same wood inside as it is outside.”

Tapping into natural resources to create eyewear does not stem from an urge to embrace any current trend; the usage of woods, buffalo horn and leather derives from Kramer’s love for nature. “You look around and see trees, plants, fish and birds and they’re just beautiful,” he says. “I’d love to use a fish skin on a pair of glasses, but unfortunately you can’t do that. You have things appearing in nature that are perfect the way they are.”

Dismissing current trends and embracing his own style isn’t just a matter of aesthetic for Kramer, but also a well-devised business model. The timelessness of the collection, which is geared toward wearers aged 25 and up, ensures an enduring shelf life (pun intended). “The vision of the company is to provide timeless eyewear—not something that is here today, gone tomorrow fashion,” says Kramer. “Salespeople at optical shops get a feel for the frames’ shapes and contours. This differs from another model of selling frames, which involves coming out with a lot of new styles and being up-to-date with fashion. That may work at first, but those frames will never sell twice. I’ve seen the sales increase with Teka frames over time because salespeople have more confidence in the product after they’ve sold it a few times.”

Kramer’s aspiration to create timeless frames is executed through clean lines and a lot of rimless styles. “Rimless never went away,” he says. “If you look back at any of the classic frames throughout history, they are rimless and anyone can wear them. Also, since I use a lot of exotic materials on the temple pieces, I design the temple pieces first and then work my way in. I’ve always liked a clean look but you need to add a tinge of something to make it really stand out.”

In this economy, beauty alone is a hard selling point. Yet, despite the often expensive price tags on the rare materials, Kramer has a unique approach to business that makes the collection rather accessible. “The way I look at my business is not the way most people approach their business,” he explains. “I don’t look at the exact cost and say I need to make an exact amount of money on a particular frame. I balance cost over the entire collection. There are some frames that I don’t make much of a profit on but I sell at a lower price just so I can get it out there. For example, even though we offer some pieces in the collection with much more buffalo horn on them than others, we keep the price point the same so that we can keep on selling the frames well.”

For someone who seems to have both the design and marketing sides of his company worked out so thoroughly, it may come as a surprise that Kramer didn’t have any experience in the optical industry until just a few years ago. It was a combined interest in fashion and fascination for the technical aspects of construction that drew him to eyewear design. “I’ve always loved taking the ordinary and turning into something else,” he says. “I enjoy fashion along with the hands-on aspects, like finding out exactly how the screws are made and learning about grooves. I love the manufacturing part of the trade, and you’ll see a lot of that in the Teka metal and plastic frames—I’ll take a functional element like a hinge and turn it into an architectural piece.”

Despite Kramer’s affinity for the design process, he makes sure to always take the wearer into consideration. “When I design a frame, it’s not just a design piece,” Kramer explains. “First I look at someone’s face and think of what I can do to enhance that face. I never try to hide anyone’s features. I begin the design process by assessing what type of shape or what kind of material will make the most of someone’s face.”

Kramer puts a lot of emphasis on understanding the Teka customer. Taking the feedback from his clientele, the line has evolved along the way. “I always listen to feedback and learn,” says Kramer. “I always stick to the image of the brand and the process won’t change, but customer input has influenced some of the styles. The combination of colors on one of the wood frames is based on a suggestion I got from a customer.”

There is more for Teka Eyewear on the horizon. The success of the past three years has encouraged Kramer to branch out and look into a sunwear line and possibly even acquire a license for a children’s collection. “I’m always thinking about what’s going to be next,” he says. —Article reprinted from 20/20 Magazine with permission from Jobson Pubishing 

SÁFILO SIGNS WITH TOMMY HILFIGER » Sàfilo Group and the Tommy Hilfiger Group have signed a global eyewear licensing agreement valid until 2015 with an optional five-year extension. This agreement is for the exclusive design, development, production and distribution of Tommy Hilfiger ophthalmic and sunglass products. The sunglass collection will be available in Tommy Hilfiger boutiques, department stores and sunglass specialty stores in the U.S. as of November 2010, followed by the ophthalmic collection and the sunglass collection for the optical market in January 2011. PALM OPTICAL’S NEW BUZZ » North Miami Beach, Fla.-based Palm Optical has created a new division called “Buzz” to complement its high-fashion, high-end Ultra division, which includes Cazal and Caviar. Buzz will offer trendy, well-made product at more affordable price points and will launch early this year. MIKLI TAKES STAKE IN VUARNET » Alain Mikli International has taken a 75 percent equity stake in Sportoptic Pouilloux, the owner and developer of the Vuarnet sunwear brand. Mikli will redevelop the Vuarnet collection and broaden its reach via a new series of products featuring authenticated Vuarnet special-purpose lenses from the company’s own French factory and updated designs targeting the ski, nautical and water sports markets with a new collection, Vuarnet par Mikli, to debut in September 2010. MARCOLIN RENEWS CAVALLI LICENSES » The Marcolin Group and the Roberto Cavalli Group announce the advanced renewal of the licensing agreements for the design, production and worldwide distribution of ophthalmic frames and sunglasses in the Roberto Cavalli Eyewear and Just Cavalli Eyewear collections through December 31, 2015. ZOOBUG COMES TO U.S. » U.K.-based Zoobug, a children’s eyewear specialist, has signed a distribution agreement for the U.S. with AccessUrEyez Eyewear, which takes effect immediately. Zoobug offers children’s sunglasses (pictured) and ophthalmic frames.

The statistics are daunting: one in every 91 children in the United States is diagnosed with an autism spectrum disorder. Talk About Curing Autism (TACA), an organization dedicated to supporting, empowering and educating families dealing with autism, believes that appropriate medical interventions, traditional therapies and support services can help many children improve and even recover from the disease. TACA helps strengthen the autism community by connecting families with professional assistance.

Oakley wants in on the fight against autism. The renowned sports brand has partnered with TACA and has embellished two of their most popular eyewear styles with a puzzle motif, symbolizing the message that the puzzle of autism can be solved. Oakley will donate $20 to TACA with each sale of the special-edition frames, TACA Oakley Fuel Cell and TACA Oakley Ravishing.
Oakley’s established presence in the global market will help bring TACA’s mission to the public’s awareness. “Corporations like Oakley are a wonderful gift to TACA and the families we serve,” says TACA executive director Lisa Ackerman. “Oakley brings powerful influence to foster awareness and visibility of autism. We are grateful for this support and for friends like Oakley.”
And Oakley is no stranger to pairing up for a good cause, having met with great success after designing limited-edition breast cancer awareness frames. “We are honored to team with TACA and play a part in spreading the message of hope,” notes Oakley’s vice president of global sports marketing, Pat McIlvain. “The art on our new TACA special editions will fuel awareness and we are proud to assist in supporting TACA’s ongoing mission to help children with autism reach their true potential.”    

 —-Article reprinted from 20/20 Magazine with permission from Jobson Pubishing.  Written by Melissa Arkin

By Gloria Nicola Photographed by Stephen Sullivan Diane von Furstenberg, perhaps, best describes herself in words she used last fall at the 2009 ACE Awards when she presented the Fashion Icon Award to another legend, Barbie. In her speech, von Furstenberg says of the famous doll. “What do you need to be a fashion icon? You need legs, good legs. You need not to age or at least don’t show it. You need to love fashion. You need to be multi-faceted. Barbie always looks good. She’s had 108 careers—surgeon, astronaut, even a president. She loves fashion. She has worked with 120 fashion designers. She’s also a partner of the CFDA. She’s very generous. When she has a good year, she contributes to the CFDA and the scholarship fund. She’s a philanthropist. She’s hot. She loves every country… She’s pretty wonderful.” Born in Belgium, von Furstenberg arrived in New York in 1972 with a suitcase full of wrap dresses. Four years later she needed a bigger suitcase. In 1976, five million wraps were sold—her name becoming synonymous with confidence and female freedom. The prior year, she created a fragrance and licensed her name to a full range of products, including eyewear, a license she had with Optique Du Monde from 1975 to 1993. Over the next decade, she pioneered fashion and business trends, built and sold a cosmetics company, launched a home collection and received the New York Mayor’s Liberty Medal for Citizens of the World Who Have Achieved the American Dream. After taking a hiatus from fashion, she reemerged on the New York scene in 1997 with the re-launch of that iconic dress. A new generation of women readily embraced her designs. The DVF collection has since evolved into a full line of ready-to-wear, including sportswear, eveningwear, dresses and accessories with 32 freestanding Diane von Furstenberg boutiques and distribution in more than 71 countries. Although the designer is constantly refining and redefining the DVF brand, she continues to support her original mantra: “To feel like a woman, wear a dress.” Throughout the decades, von Furstenberg has always understood the enormous value of an eyewear license. She was one of the first designers/celebrities to have a branded eyewear collection and is now launching a collection of frames and sunglasses with Marchon Eyewear. “Eyewear is great because it functions as an accessory and a necessity—it’s both practical and appealing,” she notes. “And it touches so many generations, making it perfect for my brand because the wrap dress also crosses so many generations.” She is especially enamored with her new eyewear collection. “I think they are fabulous,” she emphasizes. “I love this one and this one and this one,” she says as she picks up first one style, then another and another. “They are great. I love them all. They are fabulous. I need a lot of glasses,” she emphasizes. Von Furstenberg says she has been wearing sunglasses since she was 17. “I never go out on the street without the protection of sunglasses, plus they are so glamorous. But I’ve only been wearing prescription eyewear for 10 or 15 years. And that is a very different experience. Prescription glasses are like makeup. Women need to experiment with them to see what works best for various looks and occasions.” With glasses, as with all of her fashions, the designer wants them to be comfortable, functional, flattering and have a touch of humor. For example, in the eyewear collection, the wrap dress is interpreted with metal and plastic wrapped around the temples and the signature DVF lips are rendered in pink Swarovski crystals on a black sunglass. “Color is another element I try to put into all my products because it provides a sense of confidence,” von Furstenberg says. “And color translates well into eyewear.” Such hues as teal, lavender, plum and lots of red, favorite colors of von Furstenberg are predominant in the eyewear collection. She also has another expectation for her eyewear, just like she does for all her products. “I want Diane von Furstenberg glasses to become your best friend.” Since the designer first began working with eyewear in the ’70s, there have been many positive changes, she says. “The choice of materials has greatly improved and all the advancements in technology allow us to apply many more design elements than we could in the past.” Von Furstenberg is also very happy with her partnership with Marchon. “The minute I met Al Berg [president and CEO of Marchon Eyewear] and his team I loved them. We got to know and respect each other. It’s been great.” The feeling is mutual. Says Berg: “Diane’s ability to make fashion effortless, free and symbolic for the wearer is coveted in the fashion industry. It is a great honor to bring this relevant global brand into our ever-expanding portfolio.” Creating that effortless style is very important to von Furstenberg. “It creates an ease and a sense of confidence. There’s nothing more beautiful or sexier than a woman who is confident. My motto: Be yourself.” And that’s perhaps why her fashions have appealed to so many generations. “The older I get the younger my customers become,” she says. “I’m always pleased, but surprised by that. It’s fun. It keeps me young and makes me relevant.” When asked why she thinks she is an icon to women of all ages, she responds: “Maybe it’s because I have become the woman I always wanted to become while helping women become the women they want to be. Women inspire me. It has always been my mission to empower women… because I wanted to be an empowered woman and I became one. Now I want to empower every woman. I do it through my clothes. Through my works. Through money. Through everything,” she says. “I respect women and I’m very respectful of their needs. I like to make women feel better. I like them to smile.” Regarding how the fashion business has changed since she first arrived, von Furstenberg notes it’s more accessible. “Fashion is less dictatorial. Women are more selective and individualistic about what they pick now.” Her advice to designers starting out: “You need to be clear on what you are doing and it needs to have a reason for being. Then go for it.” If she were to change careers, she says she would like to be a film director. Then she says, “You know, I’ve just taken up photography. I’m doing the photography for my ad campaigns.” And she has taken up acting. In an ad for her eyewear, she drives a cab, picking up a passenger, who happens to be her daughter-in-law. She has also been and continues to be actively involved in saving New York’s High Line and supporting the development of the newly opened public park on the site of a former elevated freight railway. And that’s the (w)rap on DVF. As she said about that other icon, Barbie, Diane von Furstenberg is also “pretty wonderful.” -Article reprinted from 20/20 Magazine with permission from Jobson Pubishing.

Enduring Look» Carrera Endurance shades from Sàfilo as seen in Rihanna’s (1) video “Rude Boy”… Speedster» The U.S.’s most decorated winter Olympian, short track speed skater Apolo Ohno (2) sports Nike Impel EV0480 from Marchon… S in DVF» One of the stars of the hot CW drama “Gossip Girl,” Blake Lively (3), who plays Serena van der Woodsen, in Diane von Furstenberg DVF518S from Marchon… Hurts So Good» Actor Jeremy Renner (4) in Calvin Klein 7739, from Marchon. Renner was nominated for an Academy Award for his role in the film “The Hurt Locker,” which won the Oscar for Best Picture… Spotted» “Gossip Girl” hotty Penn Badgley (5) wears JOE Joseph Abboud JOE 512 from Altair… Fast Women» Wearing styles from Kaenon Polarized are skier Julia Mancuso (6), who took home two silver medals from the Vancouver Winter Olympics, in Pino and NASCAR driver Danica Patrick (7) in Burnet… Starting a Revolution» Wearing sunwear from Revolution Eyewear are: Kara DiGuardio (8) of “American Idol” in Ed Hardy EHS022; reality TV star Kim Kardashian (9) in Ed Hardy EHS002; and former heavy weight boxing champ Mike Tyson (10) in Ed Hardy EHS011… Twilight Time» Actress Anna Kendrick (11), best known for her role in “Twilight” and most recently seen in the George Clooney film “Up in the Air,” wears Diane von Furstenberg DVF518S from Marchon… Golden Girl» Sandra Bullock (12), who took home the Academy Award for Best Leading Actress last month for her role in “The Blind Side, in Diane von Furstenberg DVF5001 from Marchon… Keeps Ticking» Pop star Ke$ha (13), whose number-one single “Tik Tok” broke the record for highest weekly plays, in Diane von Furstenberg DVF101S from Marchon… Class Act» Actor Leonardo DiCaprio (14), most recently seen in Martin Scorsese’s “Shutter Island,” wears Modo Federico sunglasses.  � � -Article reprinted from 20/20 Magazine with permission from Jobson Pubishing.

 

Eyewear Designs launches its Kensington Collection, a line the company describes as superior quality eyewear at retailer friendly prices. (Link: KS Kensington Glasses) Included are six men’s, four women’s and two unisex styles made of metal and acetate. Shapes are contemporary variations on rectangles, ovals and bowties. Colors range from gold, silver and gunmetal to shades of black, brown, burgundy, gray and taupe. Most frames are equipped with spring hinges.


PHILOSOPHY:
“Our new Kensington Collection is designed to compete with other value-minded lines, offering eyecare professionals unprecedented value in light of the superior quality and styling of the products,” says Andrea Gluck, co-president of Eyewear Designs. “With the Kensington Collection, ECPs can now provide their customers quality eyewear at an affordable price.”

PRICE POINT:
$. For additional information, contact Eyewear Designs, (800) 645-6596; web site: www.eyeweardesigns.com

INSIGHT
The Kensington Collection is ideally suited for managed vision care programs and frame and lens packages.  -Article reprinted from 20/20 Magazine with permission from Jobson Pubishing.    

Eye Q Eyewear expands its Sydney Love line launched in 2007 with the addition of six metals and four zyls that continue to offer designs appealing to women of all ages. Treatments are inspired by fun colorations and the whimsical patterns found in the Sydney Love handbag and accessories collections—polka dots, hearts, studs, scalloping and laser etchings. Colors range from shades of burgundy, plum, purple and red to black, brown and sienna. Shapes are variations on bowties, butterflies, cat eyes, ovals and rectangles in fully rimmed and two semi-rimless styles. Eye sizes are 49mm to 54mm. Many of the frames are equipped with spring hinges.

PHILOSOPHY: “Sydney Love is a distinctly recognizable name with whimsical print handbags and accessories at affordable prices,” says John Barry, Eye Q vice president of sales and marketing. “This is a brand that continues to offer styles that appeal to mothers who go shopping with their daughters.”

MARKETING: Merchandising materials include a five-place display and logo plaque. Each frame comes with a Sydney Love case in various patterns.

PRICE POINT: $$ to $$$. For additional information, contact Eye Q Eyewear, (800) 403-3937; web site: www.sydneyloveeyewear.com

TIP: The Sydney Love line of products includes handbags, luggage and accessories designed by artist and fashion designer Christine DeGennero. She currently works from her studio in Florence, Italy. -Article reprinted from 20/20 Magazine with permission from Jobson Pubishing.